Across Germany by Bus & Train

New Town Hall in Hanover, Germany at sunset — New Town Hall in Hannover, Germany at sunset

We initially thought we’d fly straight from the Netherlands to Warsaw, Poland. Instead, we opted for a more leisurely overland route. We did three short bus hops and one train ride (each about four hours in length) spending a couple of nights in four of Germany’s smaller cities, namely Duisburg, Hannover, Leipzig, and Dresden, before heading into Poland.

The route across Germany on our 8-day trip

Well before 20th century Germany became a force to be reckoned with, Germanic people were making their mark on history. While the Romans had annexed the bulk of the land west of the Rhine by 9 CE, the tribes living east of the Rhine held fast against the might of Rome and remained unconquered. From this indomitable Germanic region, the Franks would emerge roughly 400 years later to invade the collapsing Roman Empire and establish the Holy Roman Empire, the most powerful Christian kingdom in early medieval Western Europe. The late 12th century witnessed the rise of the Hanseatic League, which began as a loose association of German port towns banding together to protect and expand their commercial interests. By the 15th century, the League dominated the North and Baltic Seas, regulating trade in some 200 ports across eight modern-day countries (from Estonia to the Netherlands). The Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648) was an ugly conflict with religion (Protestant and Catholic) at its root. Catholicism (and the House of Habsburg) won the day, yet the ravages of war including famine and disease decimated the German population by nearly 50%.

The Stadterhebungsmonument recreates historical scenes that took place in and around Düsseldorf in the 13th century

In 1815, following the Napoleonic Wars, the German Confederation was established. This alliance of 39 predominantly German-speaking sovereign states in Central Europe was not so different from the Hanseatic League in terms of protecting trade, but was far more political and the divine right to “rule” German lands continued to plague the European continent. In 1866, the Seven Weeks’ War ended in favour of Prussia (portions of modern-day Germany, Russia, Poland, Denmark, Belgium, and Czechia), and the North German Confederation was created. Over the next few years a handful of southern independent German states joined the northern Confederation and in 1871 a unified German Empire was proclaimed. In 1914, with the German Empire not so quietly standing in the shadows, Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia. Internal revolution led to the collapse of the German Empire and ultimately the end of WWI. The harsh economic penalties imposed by the Treaty of Versailles on the tattered remains of the “Empire,” coupled with the Great Depression, were significant factors in paving the way for Hitler’s rise to power in the 1930s, and all four of the German cities we visited during this trip bore witness to the devastation he wrought.

Dollars – While it was less expensive to bus across Germany versus flying, we were horrified at hotel and Airbnb rates! Granted, we chose to stay as close to the city centers as possible, but yeesh, we were paying double or triple what we ideally like to spend.

	Cost/Day (2 people/14 nights)	What’s Included?
Roadtrip living expenses	$209/day Canadian ($153 USD / €141)	Accommodation, Flixbus/train, groceries/wine, restaurants, and local transportation
All-inclusive nomadic expenses	$222/day Canadian ($163 USD / €150)	Expenses above plus: subscriptions (Netflix and other streaming services, website hosting, Adobe Lightroom, VPN, misc apps, etc.) and health insurance

Our full expenses for 8 nights across Germany (Canadian$)

Environment – To maximize our time in each of these German cities we elected to stay as close to the bus stations as possible, which coincidentally were always adjacent to the city’s Hauptbahnhof – the central railway station. While this meant we were centrally located, close proximity to train stations can occasionally result in a rather sketchy neighbourhood – that was certainly the case in Duisburg. The Airbnb itself was sparkling clean and comfortable; the walk to it, somewhat grubby. Honestly, Duisburg in general struck us as grimy – more on that below. Hannover (hotel), Leipzig (Airbnb), and Dresden (hotel) accommodations were each within a 10-15 minute walk from the train station and in neighbourhoods that were not the least bit dicey – the hotels in Hannover and Dresden were in the middle of highly touristic areas with the added bonus of a free buffet breakfast!

Taken on the Augustus Bridge in Dresden — The Augustus Bridge leading into Dresden

Tips, Tricks & Transportation – We used Flixbus and Flixtrain for our cross-country trip. Flixbus is a German company operating in more than 40 countries, including North America. We’ve used them the past two years to get from Palm Springs where we spend Christmas into LAX for departing flights. It is a low-cost carrier so absolutely no bells and whistles (like in-seat entertainment screens) but is an ideal mode of transportation for short distances. The high-speed Flixtrain service is currently only operating within Germany, and we’d read that it did not perform with the same German efficiency as the bus. Sure enough, on the leg between Duisburg and Hannover, the train was running about 30 minutes behind schedule. The cost for both of us for three buses and one train ride, covering a total distance of roughly 845 kilometers / 525 miles, was $163 CAD / $120 USD. We did pay a slight premium on each of the bus rides to have the front row seats which had slightly more leg room and afforded us a better view. Overall, we thoroughly enjoyed using ground transportation to traverse the German countryside.

The Flixbus buses and train we used to traverse Germany probably cost not much more than a ride in this horse-drawn carriage — The Flixbus buses and train we used to cross Germany probably cost less than a ride in this horse-drawn carriage in Dresden!

Out and About

Duisburg/Düsseldorf

Düsseldorf had been our original destination, but nightly accommodation rates were insane so we settled on staying in the nearby city of Duisburg. With its location at the confluence of the lower Rhine and Ruhr rivers, Duisburg was an early member of the Hanseatic League and would continue to play an important role in German industry. Early 18th-century commerce in tobacco and textiles would give way to the Industrial Revolution with iron, steel, mining, and chemical industries leading the way. Those latter industries also made it a prime target for aerial bombing during WWII. Nearly 80% of all residential buildings were destroyed or damaged and most of the historical landmarks were lost. It is not a very pretty city.

These brightly colored sculptures called Nanas can be found on display in many German cities - this one in A plaza in Duisburg — These brightly coloured sculptures called “Nanas” can be found in many German cities – this one in a plaza in Duisburg

Just a short 20-minute train ride south is Düsseldorf, one of Germany’s major financial centers and a popular shopping destination. Shopping doesn’t hold any appeal for us, but it was pleasant to wander around the old town and along the Rhine. And what the city lacked in charm it made up for with it’s rather unique tradition: cartwheeling. Apparently in 1288, following the Battle of Worringen, the children were so excited when the settlement was granted a town charter they began turning cartwheels en masse, and every year since 1937 the city has held a cartwheeling tournament to celebrate the occasion.

The Cheese & More shop certainly puts its wares on display, with hundreds of wheels of cheese in its windows — The Cheese & More shop certainly puts its wares on display, with hundreds of cheese wheels lining its windows

Hannover

While not technically a member of the Hanseatic League, Hannover was situated at a natural land crossroad on the Leine River south of Bremen, an important member of the League. As overland travel was difficult, Hannover soon became an important link to the northern sea trade routes and was granted town privileges in 1241. It would continue to be an important junction into the 20th century. During WWII more than 90% of the city was destroyed in strategic bombing, in particular the Allies’ “Oil Campaign” which targeted the Nazi’s supply lines for petroleum, oil, and lubrication products.

Aegidienkirche was not rebuilt and its ruins were left as a war memorial — *Aegidienkirche* was not rebuilt, with its ruins left as a war memorial

Inside the Aegidien Church is The Peace Bell, donated by Hiroshima, which is rung every year on August 6 to commemorate the atomic bombing

While only about 25% of Hannover’s buildings date from before 1950, the city has undertaken a remarkable rebuilding campaign remaining faithful to the original architecture. It is a lovely city to walk through, following the Red Thread, a clever walking path devised by the tourist board. The route is 4.2 kilometers / 2.5 miles long and takes you past 36 numbered historical sights that you can read about in online guides.

The "Red Thread", a walking path that leads tourists to sites around Hannover — The “Red Thread”, a walking path that leads tourists to interesting and historical sites around Hannover

Memorial in Opera Square serving as a reminder of the persecution of the Jews in Hannover

Inside the New Town Hall, built in 1913, are four models of Hannover depicting the city in 1689, 1939, 1945 and “today,” which show in graphic detail the WW2 destruction — The foyer of the New Town Hall, built in 1913, has four models of Hannover depicting the city in 1689, 1939, 1945 and “today,” which show in graphic detail the WWII destruction (the models are in the displays with railings)

Market Church on the left (14th century) and Old Town Hall (early 15th century)

Urban surfers enjoying a wave built into the Leine river that winds through Hannover — Urban surfers enjoying a wave built into the Leine river as it winds through Hannover

Leipzig

While the city of Leipzig has long figured in the history of European overland trade (it has been holding trade fairs since 1190), its cultural significance is more impressive. To name a few: the St. Thomas Choir of Leipzig, a boy’s choir, was founded in 1212; the Leipzig University, one of the oldest universities in Europe, began taking students in 1409; the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra, established in 1743, is one of the oldest symphony orchestras in the world; Leipzig was a center for publishing between 1764 and 1945, and is the main seat of the German National Library, which has been collecting and archiving German-related publications since 1913. Located about 150 kilometers (90 miles) southwest of Berlin, it emerged from the aftermath of WWII as a city within East Germany, and while it would remain a major urban center, its cultural importance was neglected, though fortunately not destroyed.

Whitney admiring the New Town Hall in Lipzieg — Whitney admiring the New Town Hall in Leipzig

The Forum of Contemporary History, which opened in 1999, is a free museum showcasing everyday life under communist rule, and the subsequent reunification process. It begins with a very quick summary of WWII which includes a powerful acknowledgement of the role all of Germany played in that war: “The scale of the crimes committed under the National Socialist regime of violence makes it clear that ordinary Germans share responsibility for them.” The museum is superb, thoughtfully laid out and extraordinarily informative.

Artifacts from WWII at The Forum of Contemporary History in Leipzig that details the lives of residents in East Germany under Soviet control — Artifacts from WWII at The Forum of Contemporary History in Leipzig that details the lives of the residents in East Germany under Soviet control

Magazine cover on the left that was rejected by the Soviet authorities for being too counter-culture, and the cover on the right that was approved (evidently very short skirts weren't an issue) — Example of a magazine cover on the left that was rejected by the Soviet authorities for being too western, and the replacement cover on the right that was approved (evidently very short skirts weren’t an issue)

Checking out a "Wartburg", a line of cars built in East Germany from the 1950s until the late 1980s — Checking out a Wartburg – a line of cars built in East Germany from the 1950s until the late 1980s

Dresden

As European cities go, Dresden, on the eastern edge of Germany, is a baby. The region was known as the Margravate of Meissen, a medieval principality founded in 965 in the hinterlands of the Holy Roman Empire. While not uninhabited, its population was sparse. A settlement on the banks of the Elbe River is first mentioned in the history books in the early 13th century when the Germanic population was migrating east and Drezdzany, a tiny Slavic fishing community, seemed like a good spot to set down roots. It wasn’t long before it became the capital of the Margravate and was soon the royal residence. As the Margravate morphed into the Kingdom of Saxony, Dresden would continue to be the seat of power until the region was unified into the German Empire and Berlin became its capital.

Statue at the side of the Georgentor, the original exit from Dresden

Much like Hannover, Dresden was significantly damaged during WWII and has been lovingly restored. Its resurrection just took a bit longer as it spent the decades following the war under Soviet control. The Dresden Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) was one of the buildings waiting patiently for restoration. For most of the war, it stood undamaged. That changed on February 13, 1945, when American and British forces dropped 3,900 tons of high-explosive bombs and incendiary devices on the city, the reasons for which remain controversial to this day. After the war, the people of Dresden collected bits of the rubble hoping their beloved church might one day be restored. In 1989, a citizen’s initiative raised 180 million euros (most from private donations), gathered the cherished stones collected decades earlier, and had them incorporated where possible into the restoration work. The black patina of those stones is a poignant contrast to the beige-coloured sandstone restoration. The Frauenkirche is just one of multiple gorgeous buildings in Dresden just begging to have their photo to be taken.

The Dresden Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) in Dresden was destroyed and burned near the end of WWII, but local residents took some of the original blocks and stored them in the hope that it would be rebuilt, which is was in the 1990s after the Soviets left (the dark blocks are the salvaged ones) — The Dresden *Frauenkirche* (Church of Our Lady) in Dresden was destroyed and burned near the end of WWII, but local residents took some of the original blocks and stored them in the hope that it would be rebuilt, which it was in the 1990s after the Soviets left (the dark blocks are the salvaged ones from the burnt building)

Procession of the Princes, a 101-meter / 335-foot-long porcelain mural depicting the 35 rulers of Saxony. Unveiled in 1907 this piece of historical art suffered minimal damage in WWII. — Procession of the Princes, a 101-meter / 335-foot-long porcelain mural depicting the 35 rulers of Saxony. Unveiled in 1907, this piece of historical art suffered minimal damage in WWII.

The Schlossplatz - a Cobbled square with 18th-century origins, overlooked by a cathedral & palace that was destroyed and subsequently restored after WWII — The Schlossplatz – a cobbled square built in the 1700s overlooked by a cathedral & palace that was destroyed and subsequently rebuilt after WWII

Us – With the exception of Duisburg, we enjoyed wandering through these German cities. Hannover, Leipzig, and Dresden were all eminently walkable and photogenic – the Dresden waterfront along the Elbe River is a photographer’s dream, especially at sunset. Those three cities were also neat and tidy; the sidewalks in Duisburg (and Düsseldorf) were a carpet of cigarette butts and chewing gum residue. A rule of thumb in the nomadic community is to give a destination 72 hours before passing judgment on its merits. It’s a good approach and has proven true in a few cities we’ve visited. We had roughly 48 hours in Duisburg and we’re pretty confident another 24 wouldn’t change our impression. Off to Poland!

Restaurants – Currywürst is German fast food consisting of fried, or steamed, pork sausage sliced into bite-sized chunks swimming in curry ketchup, and served with a side of fries. The quality of the curry ketchup varies greatly, from highly seasoned tomato-based sauces to regular ketchup sprinkled with curry powder – that’s the version we ended up trying at the popular Bratwurst-Glöckle on the Georgestrasse pedestrian walkway in Hannover.

Currywürst - it was okay — Currywürst and fries – it was okay

One serving between the two of us was plenty – we thought the freshly made ham and onion pretzel we tried earlier in the day was far more satisfying.

Speech – English is the official language of business in Germany, with roughly half the population also able to converse in it. Good basics to have in your foreign language repertoire are: